Roads We Remember #13
From a young age old photos from Italy’s famed Mille Miglia taken in the 1950s had captured my imagination. My fascination clung to the classic black and white images showing spectacular period sports cars departing from the elevated stage area on the viale Venezia in Brescia. Dramatic in a film noir kind of way, they evoked an earlier time and place, both heroic and romantic. It always seemed that the face of an elegant Grace Kelly should be close-by overlooking a departing open sports car with a Moss or Fangio or some rakish European playboy at the wheel.
Now, I had signed on with Grandstand Motor Sports a British motorsport travel specialist. More about them later. My time had finally arrived to experience the Mille Miglia, called by many “The most beautiful race in the world.”
2025 Mille Miglia; Hot Town, Summer in the City
Blue skies and soaring temperatures welcomed me to Brescia, the traditional launch point for the Mille Miglia. Mille Miglia translates to “1000 miles” in Italian and commemorates the roughly one thousand mile length of a grueling round trip race on public roads from Brescia to Rome and back. Starting in 1927 and for the last time in 1957 the treacherous route had often been run by teams combining the greatest drivers accompanied by skilled navigators. Death of teams and spectators alike loomed as a constant possibility.
Teams faced treacherous back roads that twisted through the rugged narrow mountain passes of the Italian back country that challenged both driver and navigator. Each race witnessed head to head competition between some of the most dominant performance vehicles from companies such as Alfa Romeo, Lancia, Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Maserati, Aston Martin and Jaguar. In 1957 one of those vehicles, a Ferrari 335S driven by Alfonso de Portago had a front tire burst causing him to somersault through a crowd of spectators by the tiny village of Guidizollo. Eleven people including de Portago and co-driver Ed Nelson died. The dead included 5 children. This catastrophic accident outraged the Italian public to a such a degree that it ended the Mille Miglia as a competitive race and indeed pretty much ended all racing on public roads in Italy.
In a 2012 interview racing great Stirling Moss, who held the Mille Miglia record with an average speed of 98.5 miles per hour and a total time of 10 hours and seven minutes, when asked to describe the race said, “Imagine going up a large incline towards a village and going at 185 miles per hour without knowing which way the road goes. It is the only race that frightened me, actually.” This from one of the greatest drivers ever.
How then does the modern Mille Miglia differ from the very dangerous race of 1957? That which helps make the modern version so attractive resides in the fact that only cars eligible to compete in the races between 1927 and 1957 can participate. The event, however, does not require nor reward high speed. The new Mille Miglia bases victory on the ability to maintain a specific average speed with the maximum average speed allowed being 50 km/h (31 mph). Competition involves timed stages where competitors must pass through checkpoints within set time windows. The resulting level of danger plummets while the challenge remains and the fun factor multiplies.
Walking through Brescia under cloudless skies and a blazing sun on the morning of Mille Miglia Day 1 finds a beautiful juxtaposition of timeless Italian architecture with ancient stone paved byways populated with examples of classic 20th century automobile design. Beautiful, athletic, and even some quirky vehicles of all stripes adorn the ancient city. Though many cars feature dated technology all have arrived boasting their best fighting trim. All have come to face the challenge of conquering a thousand miles fraught with inhospitable back roads in a sweltering summer heat.
Cars of prized lineage filled the often narrow side streets. Throngs of admirers milled about the spectacular examples of period technology and historic authenticity. While brilliant sunshine bathed the city, that was not the case the days before. In speaking with American Mark Fitzgerald by his open 1939 BMW 328, he described how the previous two days were spent driving to Brescia in a steady downpour. Starting with Day 1 rain would never be an issue. Heat would be.
Priceless vintage cars from the 1920s through the 1950s in motion brought the cityscape to life. Race tuned engines could be heard approaching, then suddenly appearing as they wheeled around ancient corners with full-throated vigor. Smiling and waving to spectators, goggled drivers and navigators projected an eager anticipation for the awaiting adventure. As the day moved towards the scheduled 12:30pm start more and more cars came to life to make their way to the Piazza Vittorio for scrutineering and the sealing ceremony.
Scrutineering refers to the technical review of an automobile to ensure it conforms to regulations. In the days of the competitive race placing the seal on the engine sought to avoid substantial modifications. Today the sealing ceremony is symbolic with the lead seal being placed on the steering column. Thus the term “sealing ceremony.”
Crowds packed the barriers lining the sides of the viale Venezia, the major avenue where each entry clocked in at the traditional elevated stage. With 462 entrees a fair estimate of the length of the line approached two miles. Imagine an announcement at the Amelia Island Concours calling out to the cars on display, “Gentlemen (and ladies) start your engines.” Lined up according to registration number, each entry stops on the stage to enjoy its moment in the sun and collect its starting time. Roaring off to the cheers of the crowd the entrant’s clock now ticks. I found the throaty note of the old Bugattis especially appealing.

At the start, Andrea Vesco & Fabio Salvinelli in their 1929 Alfa Romeo 6C 1750 SS and subsequent winner
As the early stage of the Day 1 route would travel through some nearby towns, I accepted an opportunity to visit the tour route in the lovely peninsula village of Sirmione on Lake Garda. I found crowds along the route enthusiastic and engaged. The vibe imparted the feel of one very long and happy American Fourth of July Parade. Even early on in Day 1 the heat made itself known. For the first time in my life I saw the notoriously hot Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gullwing driving with its doors open. Quite a sight. Seeing the breathtaking array of Mille Miglia entrants driving through the countryside brought to mind vibrant blood flowing through a body and with it bringing life and vigor.
Adventures experienced by the participants during the magical and sunlit days along the figure eight route forged indelible memories to be enjoyed forever. Upon their return on Day 5, the somewhat weary and very warm entrants rejoiced in their accomplishment. These were a few with whom I spoke:
Car #318: Lara Imberti Radici (R) and Martina Masoero Grattarola (L), Italy 1954 Porsche Speedster
Lara’s second and Martina’s first Mille Miglia, Martina said, “The experience was challenging, beautiful and glorious because, best of all, it provided a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with a dear friend after too much time apart.”
Car #133: Mark Fitzgerald and Craig Loucks, Denver, Colorado, 1939 BMW 328
It was Marks first Mille Miglia and Craig’s second. They agreed saying, “The Mille Miglia is an unbelievable experience. Yes, a lot of driving, a lot of sweating, a lot of heat, but visually magnificent. Like the roads. We drove through parts of Italy, We witnessed so much beauty. The problem is you’re going so fast you miss half of it, but it was amazing.”
Car #105: Neil Walker and Ian Walker, Great Britain, 1935 MGPB
Brothers, this was their second Mille Miglia. They said, “Very hot by comparison with last year but the weather was much better. It was a great experience.”
Car #96: Rob and Kim Goedmakers , Netherlands, 1934 Lagonda M45 Rapide
It is their first Mille Miglia. They said, “First no sleep. No time to eat. The whole experience was amazing. Italy was beautiful. The people are loving. A lot of waving from people. We felt like royalty. Considering everything. The car ran pretty good.”
Car #156: Henk & Marieke Van der Kwast, Netherlands, 1947 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 SS
It is Henk’s fifth Mille Miglia and Marieka’s first. Laughing Henk says, “There was a driver who apparently did not listen to one of the event marshals and nearly bumped him. So the marshal kicked the front of his car. Puts in a big dent. Just five minutes ago. Other than that the whole experience was very very nice.”
Car #232: Jeff Lotman & Tom Phillippe, USA, 1954 Lincoln Capri
This is their 11th Mille Miglia, All in the same 1954 Lincoln Capri. They said, We had many memorable experiences. We also had some brake problem but we had great weather and it was dry, thank God.”
Car #233: Paul & Susan Haggar, Great Britain, 1950 Jaguar XK120
It is their first Mille Miglia. As to lasting memories Paul called attention to the wicked blister on his foot that he had endured for three days. Susan pointed out that after five days on the road they are still talking to each other. Paul went on to say, that his XK120 had been driven by Paul Salvidori who had won LeMans in 1959 at the wheel of an Aston Martin.”
Car #115: Daisy Chu and Ping Hsu, Taiwan, 1937 BMW 328
Both agreed they had a glorious bucket list experience saying, “This has always been a dream. The scenery was breathtaking. Maybe best of all the Italian people were so welcoming.”
To say all the drivers returned to a warm welcome ranks as a gross understatement, in more ways than one. Temperatures had reached well into the 90s during a brutal heat wave. While cars faced challenges thanks to the mountain roads and heat, the last mile subjected both cars and occupants to the greatest test.
Being the owner of a Jaguar XK120MC, I appreciate the intolerance for heat engineered into every XK120. As Day 5 approached conclusion, cars had to wait for an extended period idling in a queue under a blazing sun. As minutes ticked by and temperature gauges pegged, Many decided to simply shut down before damage occurred. I have noted that few photos of the 2025 Mille Miglia, if any, show incredibly credentialed and valuable vintage automobiles being pushed to the foot of the elevated stage. That said, I can now claim that while I never ran in the Mille Miglia, I did walk, as I helped Daisy Chu and Ping Hsu push their BMW 328 towards the finish line.
Though I did not experience the grand journey of “The most beautiful race,” I have experienced being in the presence of glorious and historic performance cars prepared to honor their heritage. With that in mind and a solid 1953 XK120MC in my garage, I paused to consider “What if?”
Indeed, what if. Though I had my suspicions, I did a cursory review of the costs involved to gain entry to the ranks of those allowed to mount the stage on viale Venezia.
One package I found included all the accommodations, food, technical and customer service support excluding a list of extras. The package also included a route book, Mille Miglia decals and a goodie bag. The cost of the full package and entry fees came to a total of £82,000 ($109,988). This did not include a Chophard Mille Miglia watch at £6,600.
Like the blazing summer sun above Brescia, considering the cost to run the Mille Miglia made me break out in a sweat.
Grandstand Motor Sports promotes itself as the UK’s leading motorsports tour operator specializing in tailor-made motor racing holidays worldwide. My experience was that they did a splendid job of doing what they promised. Tia our event coordinator was an extraordinarily capable delight.